Monopoli Guide (and Nearby Stops)

Stores generally are open 10 a.m.-1 pm and then again from 5-9 pm. The hours between are called “the hours of death” because literally nothing is open except the chain supermarkets. 

Big Grocery Store

Generally shy away from these but if you need a one-stop store, one of the closest and best one is Familia Supermercato, located at the circle, Via Conchia 1. Recently remodeled, it has everything you’d want in a grocery store plus an ample bakery, cheese counter, fish counter and more. You have to bag yourself and bring your own bag or they charge. Self-checkout has an English language option (just scan your receipt to open the gate to exit). Open Sundays.

Deli (for meats, cheese):  

Numeri Primi on the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele has top quality fresh cheeses and meats. Fabio, behind the counter, is enthusiastic about offering you samples. This is a small grocery store that also offers other local goods and has a meat counter too. Another option is Biasi La Tradizione del Formaggio, a few blocks from the square, that’s strictly a cheese/meats place. 

Fresh Cheese

Highly recommend Caseificio Ignazzi cheese shop, around the corner from Familia. It doesn’t look like much on the outside they make fresh mozzarella, burrata and other soft cheeses on site plus the local favorite caciocavallo. If they’re not busy, ask to see how the cheese is made in the room behind the counter. Viale Aldo Moro, 113.

Veggies/Fruits

There are several fruit and veggie stores that line the square outside of the Old Town in Monopoli, Piazza XX Settembre. Very easy to find a couple blocks off the old town. We like Gummi Frutta, Via E. Lbera (off Via V. U Bassi), which has a large selection. The owner has tossed out some fruit we thought was fine but he said had gone south. 

Pizza

Cirasella Pizzeria is about 5 minutes from the villa. It features traditional pizza for about $12- $14 per pizza (everyone orders their own here). It’s in a non-tourist area and a local favorite. It opened another place nearby that has many options for lunch but only pizza at night called “Granum.” Both places have outdoor tables. If these places are full, there are a couple more on the street next door. Granum has non-pizza, to-go specialities at lunch as well

For Neapolitan pizza, Pizzeria Pulcinella is the best in town. Classic Naples-style wood-fired oven pizza. Via Frà Girolamo Ippolito. Make a reservation. 

Bakery

No shortage of these. Let your eyes and nose be your guide. Our favorite for focaccia and cheesecake and “Altamura” breads is a little place with a red and yellow awning and beaded door entry also on Via U. Bassi (2 or 3 blocks slightly south of the XX Settembre square). Also a great place to load up on the local snacks, taralli, which come in assorted flavors (the fennel, or finocchio, is the best).

Espresso/Cornetto

Iridium Cafe, Via Tenente Vitti, 34, a couple blocks off the main square, is our favorite. All pastries are made in-house. Ditto for their gelato (try the mini-cones) and granita (coffee is amazing). Outdoor seating or the bar inside. Just remember espresso costs more if you don't stand up at the bar and slurp it quickly, as is the style. (An expresso is a “caffe” and don’t order cappuccino or any milk drinks after 11. Rules are rules!). 

We are also big fans of Cafe Roma, which has a few outdoor tables. Excellent gelato here too. Try the spumoni if you have a chance because it is spectacular and NOTHING like the red/green/white candied fruit stuff we have here. You’ll need to ask for it. Located outside the old town near XX Settembre piazza on Largo Vescovado #1. If you want to see and be seen, the espresso shop on the Piazza on the corner of the street that goes down to the port also is a good one and has outdoor tables 

Lots of locals go to Modoo Cafe, also on the Piazza. For breakfast, they’ll ask if you want a “cornetto,” which basically  is a croissant.

Wine

There’s only one place we recommend, Il Tralcio, 33 Via Manin, and the owner is now a friend of mine, so please mention my name. It’s  little store on the corner with great selection of local reds, whites, and roses, all typically <15 Euro. Website: http://www.enotecailtralcio.com. It’s a few blocks off the main square (I typically park here and do the rest of the shopping from here since wine bottles are the heaviest!).

Olive Oil

If you’re going to take some home, go right to the source: the Monopoli Olive Cooperative factory store. Just outside of town off the highway, it is an unassuming factory with a small store. Website: http://www.oleificiocoopmonopoli.it. They have many sizes, from little bottles to big tins. They also have boxes that fit for travel. Or, better yet, go directly to the Mavilio farm in Monopoli http://www.oliodolivamavilio.com/ and walk among olive trees that are thousands of years old. You will have to contact my cousin Giovanni there who doesn’t speak any English, but he’ll be glad to host you and sell you oil direct from the farm. A great, real Puglia experience (he also ships to the US).

Local Products

Right on the Piazza near the deli there’s a store “Annessee” that sells a wide variety of local farm-produced products. Lots of tapenades and dips plus pasta, tomato sauces, jams, sundried tomatoes, etc.  Try the red peppers stuffed with tuna and the fava bean puree (and crispy fava beans) — you can’t find them anywhere else and they are spectacular. Good store for food gifts to take home. Also have olive oil in decorative bottles and pasta sauces.

Fresh Pasta

La Dispensa, via U. Rattazzi, 119. Daily made fresh pasta of every shape and size you can imagine, including the local orecchiette. Also has pre-made eggplant parm, cannelloni and other dishes to go, including zuccina povera, which is a sweet/sour zucchini sliced paper thin.

Restaurants

Don’t even THINK of dining out before 9 p.m.! Monopoli has everything from a Michelin-starred restaurant to simple take-out places. Monopoli has become a local go-to place for the evening so Friday, Saturday and even Sunday nights are very busy so will need reservations. Here are a few of my favorites.

Locanda Sul Porto

Literally steps away from fishing boats, this restaurant serving the very freshest seafood. The antipasti is stellar — great tasting and plated beautifully. Raw, grilled and fried fish platters as well. Outdoor covered seating is the best. Reservations required in the busy season.

My Wine

Don’t be confused by the name. This is a wine bar on a small street off Girabaldi Square has some of the best food we’ve had in Monopoli. The owner is from Rome and is passionate about everything on this menu, including fresh seafood. More than 250 local and international wines on his list. When we were there, he cut the cork off a bottle of sparkling white wine with a sword. Everything from the crudo to tiramisu was top notch. 

Piazza Palmieri

Located in a quiet square in the heart of old town in a quiet piazza. THE place to go on a beautiful night; make reservations so you get a table outside. Excellent antipasto and seafood (just order it for each person and a couple pasta dishes and you’ll be fine). The chef, Stefano, opened his own place after working as the top chef in several highly rated restaurants in the region. Relaxed, slightly pricey but well worth it. 

Il Guazzetto

Located in a side street in the Old Town, a block from the sea. The fish soup (order it for the table) is crazy amazing — a medley of local fish and shellfish in a wonderful tomato broth. This and antipasto will fill you. Not very big and you can view the kitchen from the street. A few outside tables in the narrow street. Stop in early in the day to reserve a table. Very informal, waiters speak English. Good cheap wine.

Antica Posta

Literally built in the wall of the Centro Storico, this is another solid upscale restaurant with an elegant interior and well-plated local cuisine with a twist. Their fried fish plater is tremendous, as is their artichoke. Service is excellent. Perfect for a nice night out or lunch.

San Domenico

Just inside the old town. Old-school Puglia cuisine. Some tables outside. Informal. Locals go here. Reservation needed. 

Ristogriggitoria “Avanti c’e Posta Da Nardino”

Locals hangout known for their fresh fried fish platters and pizza. Very basic. Outdoor tables. Just good local food. Close to the villa. New parking area has alleviated the parking nightmares of the past except on busy nights. 

Al Mare Cafe & Bistrot

Located at the foot of Centro Storico near the water, this is a nice spot if you don’t want a full-blown meal. Pizzas (7-12 Euro) are excellent, as is their salad in a pizza crust (try it). Nice outdoor seating. Often a lunch spot for us.

Titti La Pizzicheria

Unassuming deli in the Old Town tucked behind a church. The most amazing charcuterie board you’ll ever see with Italian cheeses, salamis, prosciutto and more. Also their eggplant parm and baked zucchini are outstanding.

CAPITOLO

Capitolo is part of Monopoli, just south of the villa. It’s essentially a strip of summer beach houses, restaurants, and clubs. Plenty of rocky beaches closer to the villa and some sandy ones with beach clubs to the south (you can rent umbrellas, beach chairs etc). There also is a seafood market along the sea here if you ever want to pick up something on your own to cook at home. 

There are two good nearby restaurants to go to — especially if you don’t want to deal with the hassle of parking and crowds in Old Town Monopoli. Both are along the coast road. Elia and L’Ancora (the anchor). Both specialize in seafood. Elia has outdoor tables and is a little more expensive. Can’t go wrong here. 

Trattoria Il Cavaliere

This is another local favorite that has relocated seaside in Capitolo. Solid antipasto and fish cooked to order. Very reasonable, good wine. Loud (in a fun way) when full. 

SAVALETTRI 

This is a cute little fishing town a few miles south of the villa. Not much too it; just a few restaurants, a fish market, and a little harbor. There are, however, beautiful olive groves and the top hotel in all of Puglia here called Borgo Egnazia (where Justin Timberlake got married and the G7 was hosed)). Drive over just to see the grounds; they won’t let you in. Or book a table in their Michelin restaurant and blow a few hundred Euros. There’s also a bike trail (marked with bike signs) thru the olive groves that is really nice. 

La Taverna di Umberto

Right on the main drag, maybe 10 tables (eat outside). Great local seafood, antipasti. Limited English.

Pescheria 2 Mari

Sits right on the water. My favorite place for a glass of chilled white wine and some crudo (raw fish) at sunset before a bigger dinner elsewhere later on. Waitresses speak English. 

POLIGNANO A MARE

The town just north of Monopoli, now one of the most visited because of its dramatic cliffs. Also birthplace of the songwriter of “Volare” who has a statue in his honor by the sea. Cute little old town to walk around in and also known for its fantastic gelato (try the espresso granita with cream at SuperMago on the corner; it was written up in Gourmet a few years ago for good reason). Or better yet, “Bar Turismo” a few blocks away makes everything in-house and is considered the local favorite. You can also go here by day to get on a boat to see the caves under the cliffs and turquoise waters. We’re told the fancy Grotta Palazzese is overpriced and the food is underwhelming, but it’s a fancy, once-in-a-lifetime experience to be overlooking the sea and caves.

Osteria Del Chichibio

Short walk over the bridge, this is one of the best restaurants in town with a wide selection of antipasto, fish, and risotto. Get a fresh fish and have them grill it; wood-fired grill as you enter. Slightly formal (everything beautifully plated). Excellent wine list (try some of the locals). Can get busy so check if you need reservations. A couple English-speaking waiters.

Pesceria

“Fast food” super fresh seafood, located just outside the old town. Extremely popular with locals and there are a few tables on the street.

Antiche Mura

Nice location in ancient, arched room. Good antipasti and seafood. Excellent desserts. English-speaking owner is very nice. 

Donna Gina

Superb location overlooking the cliffs. Great food and even a good pizza! Easy to find, right over the bridge. 

Foccacceria Del Corso

This is the real deal for Puglia focaccia. Just over the bridge; you’ll usually see a crowd at the doorway. Lots of choices. Just point to what you want! No English at all. Grab a slice before you walk around town to tide you over for dinner. Closes around 930.

FASANO

This is a little town that stretches from the hills to the see. Nice piazza and an old town with alleyways that lead to one of the few Porticos in the area. Several nice restaurants there, and always something happening (processions, festivals, concerts). Fasano Selva in the hills offers sweeping views of the mountains and surrounding valleys. A lovely place for a walk among the fancy villas in its center. 

Il Cortiletto

It has a simple “Trattoria” sign on the outside. Inside, it’s open air, complete with a grill in the middle of the restaurant. Wide selection of meats and fish, with a never-ending antipasti. One of the best values we’ve found in the area with terrific service and atmosphere. Located just outside of town on the road to Ostuni. Reservations a must. (Across the street is a grocery store that produces its own cheeses and makes fantastic sandwiches).

OSTUNI — La citta bianco — The White City

About 35-45 minutes from the villa, this city is all-white and lit up at night. When you approach it in the dark, it’s just amazing. Bigger than most of the surrounding towns, surrounded by endless acres of olive trees. Beautiful old town loaded with little alleys.

***SPECIAL MUST: 

Masseria Il Frantoio http://www.masseriailfrantoio.it/en/

I can’t recommend an evening here enough! Just spectacular. An old olive plantation now a small hotel with an amazing restaurant with all-women chefs using only organic and locally-produced food. Set menu that varies by night complete with wines, very reasonable for what you get. Get there early and they offer a historical tour of the buildings and gardens. If it’s nice, you eat outside. Reservations a must; you get buzzed in at the gate. English speaking.

Osteria Del Tempo Perso http://www.osteriadeltempoperso.com

Excellent Puglia food in a spectacular setting (when you reserve, ask for a room in the grotto or cave). Best antipasto around with local cheeses, meat, seafood. Great wine and digestif. It’s open for lunch but dinner is more magical when you can walk around the city, see the views to the sea, and check out all the little shops. In high season, there are two seatings. Take the later one so you aren’t rushed. 

LOCOROTONDO — The Switzerland of Puglia.

Neat, all-white hill city about 30 minutes from the villa. Beautiful views of the valleys. Charming town with lots of flowers hanging from balconies, old churches, and a few restaurants, including pizza at QuantoBasso (other items on menu as well). 

CISTERNINO

Another cute little hill town (you can combine a trip here with Ostuni or Locorotondo). Picturesque town square with an old town, lots of little shops, including the only gallery of excellent Puglia art (Pareo).

Cisternino is known for its meat. Throughout the town you will see butcher shops with restaurants attached. You literally can point to what you want in the case and they will grill it. Tables in the alleys next to the shops. If you’re sick of fish, come here and pick among the many places after you’ve walked around town for awhile.

ALBEROBELLO

This is the capital of the “Trulli,” the cone shaped farmhouses that dot the countryside. Here they are in abundance. There are several hillside streets that feature nothing but them. Sadly, this has become over-touristed (think Japanese tour buses), so get there early and walk around to see the trulli and then move on! It’s a UNESCO world heritage site. There’s a road right from Monopoli to here that is a beautiful drive thru the Valley D’Itria, where you will see many trulli along the way. 

MARTINA FRANCA

Another cute little hill town with a beautiful cathedral, cafes, lots of little stores. Baroque architecture. Never really have eaten here so no restaurant recommendations. 

Bar Adua, Via Paisiello, 62, is the oldest and best coffee shop/gelato/bakery we’ve come across.. Authentic ingredients made in-house. The pistachios used in the gelato and baked goods are from Sicily and provide exceptional flavor. 

One of our favorite ceramics places is here too. La Ceramica di Todisco Domenico. Todisco and his wife own this business, which has some of the nicest pieces around. Their “pomo” collection (little acorn-like ceramics) is among the nicest I’ve seen, with hand-painting and unusual colors. Right on the main street, which you can stroll down to see the baroque architecture in town.

CASTELLANA GROTTE

This town is known for its vast underground caves, which rival any in the USA and Europe. There are tours in English and Italian, depending on the season of multiple length. The short tour is about an hour or so, and really doesn’t do it justice. This is perfect for a rainy day activity. And remember it’s cool down there so don’t wear shorts and a T-shirt.

Food-wise, there are a couple of our favorite restaurants. Il Caroseno has a top-notch chef and the restaurant is in an old horse stable. The food is upscale but traditional. Service is exceptional. Great value. Reservations. If you want something very traditional, Il Casalicchio should be your go-to. Beautiful courtyard in summer. Traditional favorites without many tourists.

PUTIGNANO

One of the only Michelin starred restaurants in the area: Angelo Sabetelli Ristorante

Treat yourself to a fantastic night out here. Spectacular food and service, recognized throughout Puglia. http://www.angelosabatelliristorante.com/en/ They have a tasting menu that will blow you away (get the small one — the big one is WAY too much food). You can also order a la carte. Service is top-notch. Not stuffy at all. They speak perfect English. Excellent wine list. Reservations a must.

Osteria Botteghe Antiche also ranks among our favorites for its understated elegance, open kitchen and delicious local specialties. Outdoor seating in a loud piazza make for a fun night. Reservations. 

CAROVIGNO

About 45 minutes south near Ostuni, Carovigno is the real deal. It has a castle, preserved Centro Storico old town, and a piazza right with old men on benches right out of central casting. There’s no much here, but the restaurants are amazing. The Michellin one-star Osteria L’Arc Gia Sotto L’Arco is amazing (ask if their balcony table is available – there’s only one and it overlooks the piazza). We prefer Dissapore Ristorante, which SHOULD have a Michelin star or two. Fantastic dining experience – every plate is a work of art AND tastes amazing. Fixed price of 75 Euros for the tasting menu or you can upgrade to 90 Euro.

MESAGNE

Off the tourist trail, but one of the most beautiful Centro Storicos we have come across, complete with a castle and big entrance gates. Tons of restaurants and places and ruins.

ORIA

This is another off the beaten path city that looks like Monopoli did 20 years ago before tourism invaded. It’s the real deal with one of our favorite restaurants just inside the old gate of this walled city on a hill. Osteria Luce has a great selection of local dishes (somewhat different from many other places we’ve been) and great decor featuring various lights (“luce”). Hit town an hour or two before your 9 pm dinner reservation or 130 pm lunch so you can visit the religious sites and walk around to see what life in Puglia is all about. 

GRAVINA IN PUGLIA

North and west of Monopoli, this is a fascinating and still virtually undiscovered town. Has many of the main features of Matera without the tourists. In fact, the bridge in the recent James Bond movie mostly shot in Matera is here! Beautiful ravine, old buildings and caves, and a few nice shops. Osteria San’Agostino is one of the best restaurants we’ve ever lunched in, right near the town center. The symbol of the town is a rooster, and whistles are famous here too.

MONTEGROSSO

How far should you travel for an amazing lunch? This far. Antichi Sapori has a lunch that’s out of this world. Reservations must be made a week in advance usually. You will not leave her hungry. The restaurant is on the must-list of most travel magazines, and rightly so. 

Further out…and more detail at the villa in the stack of books/articles/maps….

WINERY IN GIOLA DEL COLLE

 Cantine Polvanera is an organic winery with the region’s best located in the countryside. It’s a fantastic place to spend an afternoon. Totally old school with a fantastic kitchen and serving wines that you’ve never heard of in the USA. Call ahead and arrange for their English-speaking host who will give you a tour of the winery and lead the tasting. Add a meal of local specialties (40 Euros and well worth it) that will knock your socks off. 080 758900

GROTTAGLIE

This little town is known for its pottery district (look for the signs). Williams-Sonoma and lots of others get their pottery here. Some of it is high quality, others cheap. You need to look closely. You’ll find plenty of the traditional things you can’t find elsewhere (pottery Pomos and Roosters, the symbols of Puglia) and mustached figurines. If you go here, make sure you go to Enza Fasano pottery http://www.fasanocnf.it/fasanoceramiche_who_we_are.php, the best of the bunch, which sits on the street above the main drag. Really amazing stuff. There’s also another one that I believe is down a bit on the same street that is great and has pottery you wont find anywhere else in town. You’ll spend a few hours here for sure if you go, so make sure you plan your time because it shuts down, like everywhere else, around 1230 p.m.

LECCE

“The Florence of the South.” About 1 hour south of the villa on the highway. The old town is absolutely spectacular with amazing Baroque buildings and churches, ruins, shops, restaurants, and more. See the guides at the house for details.

OTRANTO

Small fishing town just south of Lecce. A few too many t-shirt shops, but the water here is beautiful with a beach right at the old town. Has an old castle and a harbor that are nice to walk around too. 

GALLIPOLI

Cute little town on the sea, other side of the peninsula on the Ionian Sea, rather than the Adriatic. Lots of restaurants, bars overlooking the water, shops, an old town (parking is a bitch once you over the bridge). Nice day trip if combined with the pottery town of Grottoglie or Lecce. Angelo Blu, open only for dinner, is fantastic. Features the special red shrimp only found in this area and a great fish baked in salt. 

MATERA

Can’t say enough about this UNESCO World Heritage Site. It literally took my breath away when I arrived there at night for the first time and saw it. Cave churches, a rocky gorge a la the Grand Canyon, old city built out of rock, magnificent churches…oh, and great food. Seen in James Bond movie and The Passion of Christ (Mel Gibson). It’s about 2 hours each way from the villa, slightly shorter by super highway. Stay at the Corte San Pietro. Visit the Dragone winery on the outside of town where you’ll find the two funniest Italian brothers every. Nearby is the Crypt of the Original Sin. You’ll need to get tickets in advance, as its only open by special arrangement and not in the central town.

Also recommend lunch at a hill town about 20 minutes away (Bernalda), where Francis Ford Coppola has a luxury hotel that has a little bistro that serves a fantastic lunch at a very reasonable price  (about $15) called “Cinecitta Bar Bistrot” that’s unassumingly right on the main drag. Features black and white photos of movie stars of the past.

METAPONTO

Roman ruins without any tourists, including the Temple of Hera. 

THE MINI-DOLOMITES

Tired of the sea and flat land? Take a trip to the “mini dolomites.” Go up winding roads to two of the cutest little towns you will ever see, Castelmezzo and Pietraperposa. Amazing views, spectacular craggy mountains. Bring your hiking sticks; there’s a path between them that takes a few hours. Or how about a zip line? This is about a 2.5 hour drive on the superhighway; best to combine with a visit to Matera for a full day.

POLLINO NATIONAL PARK

Also about two hours or so away, the mountains and valleys here are incredible. We’re told there is excellent hiking, but we opted for river rafting on the River Lao with Rafting Adventure Lao. $35 for a four hour trip. We went in June, when the river was relatively low, but still lots of thrills – and something you’d never expect to do in Italy.

MARATEA

If the Adriatic isn’t enough for you, drive three hours west to Maratea. It has all of the beauty of the Amalfi Coast with none of the tourists. The water is crystal clear, the mountains come to the sea, and the food is some of the best we’ve encountered. The Villa delle Meraviglie overlooks the sea, has two pools, and comfortable rooms for about $130 a night – definitely a bargain. There’s a huge statue of Christ that overlooks the town. The Centro Storico on the hill is adorable as well.